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Pen-y-ghent

  • dianeneilson
  • Sep 28
  • 3 min read

This was it!

The final hurdle in our Yorkshire three peaks challenge, and another adventure ticked off our list of personal challenges.

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The Yorkshire peaks of Pen-y-ghent, Ingleborough and Whernside, form probably the most popular challenge in the Yorkshire Dales National Park, with thousands of people attempting it every year.

The peaks, which can be completed in any order, require stamina and determination, especially if you want to be able to claim that you have completed 'The Three Peaks Challenge', as this involves conquering all three mountains in one day, covering approximately 38.6 km (24 miles) and over 1,600 meters (5,000 feet) of ascent, with sections of significant vertical ascent on Ingleborough and Pen-y-ghent.

Each one is a stunning walk in its own right, with expansive and breathtaking views over The Dales, as well as south to Pendle Hill (always a bonus) and west to the Irish Sea.


We were not completing the challenge as described above, but were completing our own challenge - no less significant - a challenge to climb all three peaks before the summer was out.

After a year of serious health problems for Tony, it was not an easy challenge, and not one that we were sure that we 'could' achieve, which makes it even more special.


We climbed Ingleborough on a sunny day in March, and Whernside a month later on another sunny day in April. Five months on (it was a busy summer), and after weeks of rain, the clouds cleared at last and we decided to tackle the final peak, Pen-y-ghent.


Although the smallest of the three, many people cite Pen-y-ghent as being the hardest climb as its ascent includes a significant, and almost vertical scramble up a craggy limestone rock face. We decided to tackle the walk anti-clockwise, as recommended, and were glad we did; it would have been a difficult and dangerous descent.


Leaving Horton in Ribblesdale, we followed the road for a few hundred metres, past the pub and the church, before turning off up a narrow farm track.

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One thing I really like about this walk is that the peak is within your sights from the very beginning of the walk, and you seem to circle it, like an animal circling its prey, before attacking that steep final ascent.

The walk was lovely, zig-zagging up lanes and through fields. It wasn't a steep walk and there were plenty of opportunities to stop and admire the views and watch the meadow pippits darting in and out of the grasses; to be honest, we just took our time and enjoyed it.

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We went through a couple of gates before joining a path which turned sharply through some boulders towards the infamous ascent.

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The climb began on a rocky path - almost like a staircase - which gradually became steeper and more uneven. It 'was' steep, with sheer drops in some areas, and there were some tricky parts where we had to clamber up over boulders and rocks using our hands to pull ourselves up; but we managed it without too much difficulty, eventually arriving at the top and following the gentler pebble path up to the summit.

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It felt like a real achievement and I was quite emotional. The clouds had lifted, the sky was blue and the views were wonderful, taking in both of the other two peaks of Ingleborough and Whernside.

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The path wound downhill on the other side of the wall, on a stone stepped path at first and then on a rocky trail. Once again, it was possible to look back at Pen-y-ghent as we descended past Hull Pot, a collapsed cavern which claims to be the largest natural hole in England, and after the recent wet weather displayed a spectacular waterfall crashing down into the bottom of the pot.

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Back on the path, we passed another, smaller waterfall, following the trail for about an hour back into Horton in Ribblesdale, the only negative of the day being that the pub was closed.


This was a great walk for many reasons.

I have nothing but love and admiration for my wonderful husband, Tony; he is quite simply an amazing person and I am so grateful that we are still able to do these things together, and for every second we spend adventuring.

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The Three Peaks 

• Pen-y-ghent: 694 meters (2,277 ft)

• Ingleborough: 723 meters (2,372 ft)

• Whernside: 736 meters (2,415 ft)

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